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Author Topic: S1MS 6675A Cobra Oil Pan  (Read 18535 times)
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Teke
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« on: March 08, 2010, 08:46:34 PM »

Can someone tell me how to identify the difference between an original S1MS 6675A cobra oil pan and a reproduction?  Were there any stampings or casting numbers on the reproductions?

Thanks

Kevin   



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gjz30075
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« Reply #1 on: March 09, 2010, 08:00:32 AM »

Kevin, I have a repro pan (Branda) and it has no markings on it at all, other than that "Cobra" word on the sump.   Per this ad:   http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SHELBY-OR-COBRA-OIL-PAN-S1MS-6675A_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem45f1419f20QQitemZ300400353056QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

The S1MS  number is on the pan, at the rear.

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Greg Z
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Teke
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« Reply #2 on: March 09, 2010, 08:14:29 AM »

Kevin, I have a repro pan (Branda) and it has no markings on it at all, other than that "Cobra" word on the sump.   Per this ad:   http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SHELBY-OR-COBRA-OIL-PAN-S1MS-6675A_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem45f1419f20QQitemZ300400353056QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

The S1MS  number is on the pan, at the rear.


Thank you for the reply.  So safe to say if it has markings it would be original?

Thanks

Kevin

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jbarela
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« Reply #3 on: March 09, 2010, 11:25:44 AM »

The answer to that is no....will step away now and let a much wiser member break it down for you..give it time..they will chime in..do you have one already that your are trying to verify or one that is being offered to you as original..pics always help..There are quite a few people here who can get you an original without you having to worry about its authenticity..

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gt350hr
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« Reply #4 on: March 09, 2010, 11:58:14 AM »

    Kevin,
      I have a repro pan with the S1MS number in the back like it should be and for the most part it "looks" identical. When placed side by side with an original, differences in the lettering stand out.
 I can live with that, but the big issue for me was lack of clearance around the bolt holes. This is usually a tip off that a mold was "pulled" off an original as the copy usually "grows" in size a little. So the cast in clearance grooves get a little wider and the drilled bolt pattern remains where it should be and suddenly the wrench/socket doesn't have enough clearance to allow for tightening the fastner. The repro was a bit heavier also.
     Over the years there have been at least 4 people that claimed to have made repro pans besides the numerous vendors that sold them. Comparison with a "known" original is the best way to spot a repro IMHO. Repros are fine for all but a concourse car (also my personal opinion only), just don't try and pass one off as original and you'll be safe.
      Randy

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owner 6S477 HERTZ White w/Blue stripes-1of18-since 1974. OVER 3,500 drag strip runs made in it since then. My candidate for the "worlds Most drag raced Shelby" More added all the time.
Teke
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« Reply #5 on: March 09, 2010, 01:43:41 PM »

Hello Randy,

I know better than to pass a reproduction off as an original.  I have witnessed what can happen.   This is exactly why I am asking. 

Kevin

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trotrof1
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« Reply #6 on: March 09, 2010, 02:27:30 PM »

Seems my original pan tends to weep, does anyone also have this problem?

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shelbydoug
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« Reply #7 on: March 09, 2010, 04:50:10 PM »

If you still have the cork gaskets in there, that is the problem. Cork dries out and shrinks. I've seen steel pans need to be changed in two to three years.

And if you decide to drop the pan and redo the gaskets, use silicone on it and make sure that you 360 around each bolt and use stud and bearing sealer on the bolt threads. Sometimes they leak right through the bolt threads.

Of course the biggest problem with that pan always was that you get leaks in it. Same as it ever was.  Grin

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gt350hr
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« Reply #8 on: March 10, 2010, 08:14:35 AM »

     When I took the engine in 6S240 apart for the first time ever, I was surprised to see a "paper" pan gasket. Until this (1972) I had only been aware of the cork pan gaskets from Ford. I was not able then to find a source for the paper gasket and used cork . The pan constantly weeped around bolt holes and at the pan rail regardless of how tight the bolts were. Silicone as we now commonly use was not as common and I used permatex non hardening. Fel Pro now makes a slightly thicker composite pan gasket that is superior to cork. Just my 2 cents worth.
     Randy

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owner 6S477 HERTZ White w/Blue stripes-1of18-since 1974. OVER 3,500 drag strip runs made in it since then. My candidate for the "worlds Most drag raced Shelby" More added all the time.
trotrof1
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« Reply #9 on: March 10, 2010, 08:38:33 AM »

thanks for the headsup, I see felpro offers a fiber-latex gasket, I will give it a shot.

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Bob Gaines
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« Reply #10 on: March 10, 2010, 08:55:42 AM »

For the purpose of the discussion and for others reading that might be considering a oilpan installation on a concours car I would like to point out that the cork gaskets are the accepted historical norm on the oil pans for concours. Not to say the paper gasket Randy found couldn't have happened but it would be in more of the exception catagory then the rule catagory. I wholeheartedly agree that there are other less leak prone gaskets and techniques to apply them. If your point is originality use a cork gasket to be more original looking if that is secondary then there are many better offerings in the aftermarket that are less leak prone. Bob

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shelbydoug
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« Reply #11 on: March 10, 2010, 01:19:27 PM »

Wait, wait, wait...the cork gaskets are so far beyond leak prone that if you are going to use one, for any reason, save yourself a lot of time and just dump a few quarts of oil on the outside of the pan and be done with it. That should be sufficient for the Concourse judging to since that's how the cars were delivered to the dealers from SA.

Wouldn't want to loose points for not having a leaky oil pan. No.  Grin

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gt350hr
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« Reply #12 on: March 10, 2010, 04:53:33 PM »

     Doug ,
       I'm sure there's a memo that disputes my lying eyes,and you can't rely on the guys that did thousands of pan changes because they don't remember that far back. Other more experienced people may have had access to more "original unmolested engines" than me so you have to go with the judges accept as OEM, leaks and all. Maybe a Shelby loose leaf catalog from '66 will have a photo of a "Pan Kit" ,with gaskets and might even show the "RWB" bolt heads.
       Randy

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owner 6S477 HERTZ White w/Blue stripes-1of18-since 1974. OVER 3,500 drag strip runs made in it since then. My candidate for the "worlds Most drag raced Shelby" More added all the time.
Bob Gaines
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« Reply #13 on: March 10, 2010, 05:40:22 PM »

     Doug ,
       I'm sure there's a memo that disputes my lying eyes,and you can't rely on the guys that did thousands of pan changes because they don't remember that far back. Other more experienced people may have had access to more "original unmolested engines" than me so you have to go with the judges accept as OEM, leaks and all. Maybe a Shelby loose leaf catalog from '66 will have a photo of a "Pan Kit" ,with gaskets and might even show the "RWB" bolt heads.
       Randy
Randy you take this stuff way to personal no one said anything about "lying eyes". This whole forum is about sharing ideas . I did everything I could to give your observation the respect of the benefit of the doubt in the way I phrased it. In this instance I was just pointing out what a concours entrant would be expected to have and not that what you saw was any kind of lie. It is all about sharing information and getting at the truth man . I have owned a few NOS service Cobra oil pan kits over the years but have only had the 66 style with "RBW" bolts and not the 65 ones with Phillips head style .  Bob

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« Reply #14 on: March 10, 2010, 06:12:26 PM »

Maybe a Shelby loose leaf catalog from '66 will have a photo of a "Pan Kit" ,with gaskets and might even show the "RWB" bolt heads.
       Randy

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* Shelby Oil Pan.jpg (70.44 KB, 450x640 - viewed 1149 times.)
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