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Author Topic: GT500 Factory Air Fan Clutch Question  (Read 1145 times)
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Bob Gaines
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« Reply #15 on: September 04, 2017, 10:41:09 AM »

To add to the discussion,the collapsing lower hose typically manifests itself at higher RPM if it is going to happen. Sometimes a extended higher RPM running may not be achieved or thought necessary on a test stand. It sounds like Chris covers most of his bases so probably not in his case so for those reading.  Some of the factory hoses (I think mainly SB when included) come with a spring already installed so I assume Ford thought of it in at least as a preventive measure on some applications. Unlike the bars stop leak the spring does not have the potential of adversely effecting the cooling system if installed. It can be considered cheap insurance if you think you have the problem or not. At the very least you have a cheap insurance policy against it happening with it installed. At the very most it will set you back a few bucks or what ever the price of the spring is.  Chug a Lug

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Chris Thauberger
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« Reply #16 on: September 04, 2017, 04:00:46 PM »

Did you have to remachine the exhaust manifold to fix that leak?

I did not. The leak was not that substantial.

I blocked it with 400 dry sand paper until the valleys with the exhaust soot were removed.

Took about half an hour to remove enough material. Worked for me, results may vary.

Chris  Chug a Lug

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« Reply #17 on: September 04, 2017, 04:39:31 PM »

I did not. The leak was not that substantial.

I blocked it with 400 dry sand paper until the valleys with the exhaust soot were removed.

Took about half an hour to remove enough material. Worked for me, results may vary.

Last time I attached manifolds I used a coat of graphite on both surfaces after finding a mention of it in factory engine assembly notes. Seems to work so far

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Jeff Speegle
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Chris Thauberger
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« Reply #18 on: September 05, 2017, 06:43:11 AM »

Looks like Paul has solved his overheating issue with a new fan clutch.

Time for an update.

I still haven't had a chance to get compression readings.  I did replace the fan clutch with one from Chris Brown.  The clutch I had in was for a 67 GT500, I think (C7ZE-B) so I wanted to get the right one anyway.  I thought my clutch was good since it cooled better than one I bought from Autozone.  Boy was I wrong.  The new clutch from Chris turned very tight compared to the Autozone one.   The temperature came down about 10-20 degrees depending on speed.  It runs about 185 on the highway and 210 sitting in traffic.  I haven't driven it a whole lot since the change, but so far I'm thrilled with the results!!

I will still be changing the cam over the winter to improve the timing and pinging issues.  Although it is possible to change the cam without pulling the motor, I prefer to pull it and be able to paint everything assembled as the factory did.

I'm thinking about taking it on the LVSAAC road tour coming up in a few weeks.  We'll see how it likes a couple of hours of spirited driving!   PeelOut


Here is the entire thread http://saacforum.com/index.php?topic=40720.0

Chris  Chug a Lug

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1968 GT 500   SAAC 42 Concours Gold                     1966 Mustang drop top 4 speed Pony Interior

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CF9UUgPsa8I



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« Reply #19 on: September 05, 2017, 07:59:39 AM »

Last time I attached manifolds I used a coat of graphite on both surfaces after finding a mention of it in factory engine assembly notes. Seems to work so far

What kind of Graphite? Find it at the auto parts store?

Thank you

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docket
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« Reply #20 on: September 05, 2017, 08:54:17 AM »

Back to the main topic of my post -- emailed with Chris Brown today and he is sending me a new clutch.  Good guy.  Thanks

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docket
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« Reply #21 on: September 18, 2017, 10:52:58 AM »

All, got the part from Chris and it was a nicely manufactured part.  I can definitely hear the fan a little more now but I still have a touch of overheating.  It no longer shows up on the gauge as really hot -- its just when I turn the car off I might get an ounce of coolant out of the radiator overflow.  I put on a new cap from Marti and that did not solve the issue.

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KR Convertible
Paul Orr
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« Reply #22 on: September 18, 2017, 11:15:55 AM »

That will happen if you have a bit too much coolant in the system.  It needs to find it's own level.  I usually fill it about 3/4" over the tops
of the tubes in the radiator.     Chug a Lug 

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docket
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« Reply #23 on: September 18, 2017, 05:18:03 PM »

That will happen if you have a bit too much coolant in the system.  It needs to find it's own level.  I usually fill it about 3/4" over the tops
of the tubes in the radiator.     Chug a Lug 

Chug a Lug,

Thanks for the tip.  Mine is about an inch below the neck.  Maybe she will stop percolating soon. 

Eric a boil

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Paul Orr
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« Reply #24 on: September 18, 2017, 09:01:47 PM »

That should be pretty close.  I just measured mine from the lower gasket surface in the water neck to the coolant surface and I get exactly 1.250" using a dial caliper.  If it continues, you could have a head gasket problem or a crack somewhere.  Does the cooling system build pressure quickly?  Mine did before finding the blown head gasket. 

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1957 Thunderbird F code
1959 Cadillac 62 Series convertible
1966 Mustang GT convertible
1968 GT500 convertible #0181
2016 Ford "Exploder"
2016 F450 King Ranch
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