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Author Topic: #832 ready for paint  (Read 1871 times)
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2112
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« Reply #15 on: August 17, 2017, 09:59:57 PM »

If staying original color is being done for resale, what would cause the greatest hit to that value?

Changing color? Or being Lime Gold?

Not saying Lime Gold isn't attractive, but my experience is they command a fair amount less than an equal Nightmist car. Is the color change to a desirable color going to be a bigger hit?

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Bob Gaines
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« Reply #16 on: August 18, 2017, 01:19:28 AM »

If staying original color is being done for resale, what would cause the greatest hit to that value?

Changing color? Or being Lime Gold?

Not saying Lime Gold isn't attractive, but my experience is they command a fair amount less than an equal Nightmist car. Is the color change to a desirable color going to be a bigger hit?
You are absolutely correct if you are comparing a factory lime gold and a "equal" factory nightmist car. Not so much when comparing to a color change car. At least from  from my experience.Others of course may feel different. In days gone by your experience may be valid on color change cars. Many green cars were painted "resale red" for that reason. In today's market the color change typically has more of a adverse effect price wise (difference in price)then the less desirable color. All things being equal of course with a comparable high quality paint job.  Even though the color change may look good it is like a clone and considered somewhat of a second class citizen in many circles because it isn't the original . At least in many who are buyers mind.  The number one question buyers ask now in various ways is "how original is it?". Many will not even consider a color change car because of the expense and trouble to change it back original.  This "put it back original" attitude is something that has changed in the last 10 years or so. Just look at all of the original 65/66 car that are shedding all of the R model parts to be returned back stock. It is hard to deny the "put it back original " trend whether you agree with the original vs non original or not. Besides with modern paints lime gold looks great when fresh and unlike the old days when the single stage paints would start to fade (faded green is where the term slime lime came from) after 3 or 4 years it is possible for it to stay nice for decades. The point is a all original car holds it value better and typically brings more money then one that is non original all other things being equal.  If the value is not a consideration then never mind . If you are a person that thinks about the future then maybe it is something to think about. If you live for today want what you want just let your heirs deal with the depreciated value. My comments are just meant to remind before doing something that is hard to reverse. It's a old story, I advise against a color change or adding lemans stripes only to find out later that the owner regrets the decision after a couple years or sooner. If after all of the consideration a color change still seems to be the right thing to do then go for it. Also I always suggest to drive your car without Lemans stripes first .Then if you still want them you add them . The stripes are easily added . Once they are painted on you can forget about taking them off.  Chug a Lug

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« Reply #17 on: August 18, 2017, 04:59:52 AM »

My .02...

 1) It's your car and you can paint it any color you want.

 2) Bob and others are right.  Color changes pull down the value.  Many buyers want a factory color to be on the car so there's no "stories".
Many buyers might like "Brittany Blue" but won't purchase because it's not factory correct for the car.
They'll just wait and find a factory Brittany blue.
Even though lime gold isn't popular there are buyers that love the color.
I've had numerous lime gold's and they're much more attractive without stripes and with magstars then let's say lemans and 10 spokes.  (IMHO)

When you change the color of your car buyers will ask for discount when you're ready to sell....

Bret


« Last Edit: August 18, 2017, 05:10:08 AM by capecodmustang.com » Logged
jim mac
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« Reply #18 on: August 18, 2017, 05:46:10 AM »

If you are painting for resale, original is the best bet.  If it is for your personal enjoyment, paint it however you like. You want to be happy looking at it in your garage and driving it down the road, not wishing it was some other color....Its your car and you want to be happy with it. 

 Chug a Lug

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« Reply #19 on: August 18, 2017, 07:30:35 AM »

  Just a point of order if it is not too late.  Are you going to remove the scoops and/or otherwise disassemble the body for painting?  When I see painted over joints, various bolts, overspray where it shouldn't be sends out a message like the owner didn't know that the factory never painted like that..

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dmg67
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« Reply #20 on: August 21, 2017, 12:31:56 AM »

On an original Shelby, it's all about re-sale value, keep it original....

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« Reply #21 on: August 21, 2017, 09:27:52 AM »

Thanks guys, I guess I got something to think about,

But I'm more towards nightmist and parchment still  lol

And they put everything on to make sure everything lined up,
Do you mean to take the fenders and trunk off to paint seperetly?

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« Reply #22 on: August 21, 2017, 09:52:46 AM »


Do you mean to take the fenders and trunk off to paint seperetly?

The Shelby spec'd uni-body's with the doors on and the rear valance "hung" were painted at Ford (San Jose) the front fenders were painted at Ford too, but off the car.

The Shelby fiberglass parts (nose, hood, 4 side scoops, deck lid, tail light panel and end caps) were painted off the car at Shelby (with lacquer paint) and then put on the car.

Also, if you are wanting to paint the car "more correctly" (easier to do it "right" the first time regardless of the color) Jeff Speegle, and others, have outlined procedures, overspray and overlap of colors and where, and photos of this numerous time on this forum.  You and or your painter may want to SEARCH (upper right on the HOME Page) to see how to do this IF that matters to you.

« Last Edit: August 21, 2017, 12:45:01 PM by car 26-JD » Logged

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« Reply #23 on: August 22, 2017, 05:06:37 AM »

Also, if you are wanting to paint the car "more correctly" (easier to do it "right" the first time regardless of the color) Jeff Speegle, and others, have outlined procedures, overspray and overlap of colors and where, and photos of this numerous time on this forum.  You and or your painter may want to SEARCH (upper right on the HOME Page) to see how to do this IF that matters to you.

Great info, thanks.  I'll be painting mine back to original DMG in the future and look forward to studying the pics and info Jeff has provided. 

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« Reply #24 on: August 22, 2017, 06:56:06 AM »

On an original Shelby, it's all about re-sale value, keep it original....

Just a friendly comment on this. For many people, you are right, it is about the resale.  But for some, me included, it is not always about resale value.  Its about driving, showing, rallying, racing, cruising, and overall enjoying your car. I say paint it the color that makes you happy.

 Chug a Lug

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« Reply #25 on: August 22, 2017, 07:41:13 AM »

Just a friendly comment on this. For many people, you are right, it is about the resale.  But for some, me included, it is not always about resale value.  Its about driving, showing, rallying, racing, cruising, and overall enjoying your car. I say paint it the color that makes you happy.

 Chug a Lug

+1

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GT500J
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« Reply #26 on: August 22, 2017, 12:11:40 PM »

The Shelby spec'd uni-body's with the doors on and the rear valance "hung" were painted at Ford (San Jose) the front fenders were painted at Ford too, but off the car.

The Shelby fiberglass parts (nose, hood, 4 side scoops, deck lid, tail light panel and end caps) were painted off the car at Shelby (with lacquer paint) and then put on the car.

Also, if you are wanting to paint the car "more correctly" (easier to do it "right" the first time regardless of the color) Jeff Speegle, and others, have outlined procedures, overspray and overlap of colors and where, and photos of this numerous time on this forum.  You and or your painter may want to SEARCH (upper right on the HOME Page) to see how to do this IF that matters to you.

Yes I want to do it as correct as I can, do I just type in Jeff speegle at the top?
 But I'm not painting it the original colour anyways, would it make a big deal to take the extra steps?

« Last Edit: August 22, 2017, 12:13:29 PM by GT500J » Logged

1967 Shelby GT500 #832
1967 Mustang Fastback S Code
1969 Camaro RS/SS
1970 Camaro Z28 Canadian Car with documents
1962 Corvette 327/340hp
1965 Corvette 327/365HP
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« Reply #27 on: August 22, 2017, 02:36:26 PM »

Yes I want to do it as correct as I can, do I just type in Jeff speegle at the top?
 But I'm not painting it the original colour anyways, would it make a big deal to take the extra steps?
If resale value is not a concern then it is not a big deal if you don't take the extra steps. If originality is not a concern then it is not a big deal if you don't take the extra steps. Since it is your car you are the one that will have to ultimately make the choice which things make the most sense to you.   Chug a Lug

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« Reply #28 on: August 22, 2017, 02:53:09 PM »

Whatever color you do, take it apart to paint it. A high quality color change is better than a low quality original color. If you are ok with dry non shiny areas in the scoops , door jambs, cowl area paint it together. If you are ok with painted fender bolts and overspray where it shouldn't be leave it together. If you have to adjust anything after it's painted the edges will crack and chip. You will also see the edge of primer underneath where you adjusted a panel. 

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2112
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« Reply #29 on: August 22, 2017, 04:04:38 PM »

Make sure your painter knows what metalflake flop is.

If your doors and fenders are painted on racks, away from your unibody/rear quarters, even if done at the same time with the same paint, it may look like a different color based on how the metalflake laid down.

I see big dollar paint jobs all the time that look like 3 different colors because of this.

Me? I would do the jambs etc first and then have the outer panels hung on the car for the final color base coat so that one pass, front to back (nose to tail), can be done. Then clear over that any way you want.

JMHO.




« Last Edit: August 22, 2017, 04:06:31 PM by 2112 » Logged
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