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Author Topic: Engine Bay Spray Paint?  (Read 2395 times)
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Milo
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« on: July 31, 2017, 06:16:47 PM »

Has anyone had good results with a certain semi-gloss spray paint?

Im partial to duplicolor because of their can fan nozzles, but thought I would reach out first. Ive scoured the forum and haven't seen a definitive answer.

Also looking for advice on primer too. While Im not going concours (plan on driving the car) I am not interested in doing things 'wrong' when I've gone this far in disassembly/stripping.

Have I mentioned how much I hate photobucket?





Thanks!

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1966 GT Coupe - A-code, auto, Ivy/Black standard
1966 GT Fastback - A-code, 4-speed, Nightmist/Blue-White Pony
1968 GT500 #685 - 428 PI, C6 auto, Wimbledon White/Black
1969 Mach 1 R-code with Shaker - 428CJ, 4-speed, Black Jade/Black
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« Reply #1 on: July 31, 2017, 08:20:53 PM »

Rattle can is not going to hold up well and you will likely be touching it up fairly often in a show or driven car. Sure you will take it to some local shows, pop the hood and want to be proud of what they see 

Have you considered using an inexpensive spray gun from somewhere like Harbor Freight. Engine compartment is a good place to learn since the factory often missed some spots (corners and behind some brackets) or produced a run here or there.   Just a thought. Not sure if I would take the time to use a rattle can even though I did often enough in the 70's   Chug a Lug

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Jeff Speegle
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Milo
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« Reply #2 on: July 31, 2017, 09:00:51 PM »

Oddly, I own a home depot spray gun, still in the wrapper! I think I've made painting with a spray gun quite big in my head... Kinda like pulling an engine before my first time.

Any pro-tips?

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1966 GT Coupe - A-code, auto, Ivy/Black standard
1966 GT Fastback - A-code, 4-speed, Nightmist/Blue-White Pony
1968 GT500 #685 - 428 PI, C6 auto, Wimbledon White/Black
1969 Mach 1 R-code with Shaker - 428CJ, 4-speed, Black Jade/Black
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« Reply #3 on: August 01, 2017, 12:56:23 AM »

Rattle can is not going to hold up well and you will likely be touching it up fairly often in a show or driven car. Sure you will take it to some local shows, pop the hood and want to be proud of what they see 

Have you considered using an inexpensive spray gun from somewhere like Harbor Freight. Engine compartment is a good place to learn since the factory often missed some spots (corners and behind some brackets) or produced a run here or there.   Just a thought. Not sure if I would take the time to use a rattle can even though I did often enough in the 70's   Chug a Lug

+1
I used White Knight Epoxy Enamel in a spray gun, very period correct looking , unlike 2pak does.
And learn to be ambidextrous with a spray gun. Wink

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« Reply #4 on: August 01, 2017, 06:12:22 AM »

Neatness was not a requirement at the factory, runs were common.

Extend yourself and try the gun

« Last Edit: August 01, 2017, 10:29:12 AM by Coralsnake » Logged

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« Reply #5 on: August 01, 2017, 03:08:32 PM »

I had good results with Eastwood aero 2k under hood black.  It is a hardened 2 stage spray paint in a can with a good spray nozzle.   

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Milo
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« Reply #6 on: October 02, 2017, 07:32:30 PM »

Anyone care to share their paint recipe with me? Gearing up to get messy with a gun.

And any primer suggestions/recipe would be appreciated too!



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1966 GT Coupe - A-code, auto, Ivy/Black standard
1966 GT Fastback - A-code, 4-speed, Nightmist/Blue-White Pony
1968 GT500 #685 - 428 PI, C6 auto, Wimbledon White/Black
1969 Mach 1 R-code with Shaker - 428CJ, 4-speed, Black Jade/Black
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« Reply #7 on: October 02, 2017, 07:52:29 PM »

Anyone care to share their paint recipe with me? Gearing up to get messy with a gun.

And any primer suggestions/recipe would be appreciated too!



Used Hot Rod Black in the factory packs on the last couple of jobs. California compliant, looks good, a little soft (can be chipped or scratched) but not by much and touches up will with rattle can trim black to the point where is unnoticeable.   Just what I used

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Jeff Speegle
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« Reply #8 on: October 03, 2017, 02:52:05 AM »

FE engine compartments offer little room.  Chips and scratches are inevitable making plug changes and such.  Enamel paints will look like crap in a couple years.  I've used an inexpensive, HVLP spray gun with excellent results.  Just watch some YouTube videos and practice a bit first.  Both Imron and Polane B offer the best durability.  Using a compatible, self etching primer is mandatory.  My preference is probably Polane B as it has tremendous durability and chemical resistance.  Will not stain from spray solvents.    To keep my aluminum intake looking new, spray with etching, mag wheel cleaner.  Polane is unphased.

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Milo
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« Reply #9 on: October 10, 2017, 02:49:07 PM »

Thanks guys.

Im kind of stuck on Caspian65's following formula and Im wondering how I make this happen in California...

Here's a good formula to spray with a gun. 

PPG DCC9300, black with SU4985 universal matting agent.  Use 3:3:0.5:1  (Paint:Flattener:Reducer:Hardener)

Prime the bare metal with PPG DP90LF epoxy primer.  Be sure to topcoat within 48 hours for a chemical bond.

You may want to spray out on a test panel and let it dry.  I've had to adjust the flattener down a bit, like 2.50-2.75 if it dries too dull.  Also, don't freak out if the paint looks too glossy right after painting.  Wait a few hours and it should dry in perfect.

2 passes, 1.4 tip hvlp gun.

This is a very durable paint system, you can use the same paint on many other areas, just flatten accordingly.  It takes extra work and equipment, but you'll be very happy with the results.  I use DCC paint for interiors also, looks great when done right.




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1966 GT Coupe - A-code, auto, Ivy/Black standard
1966 GT Fastback - A-code, 4-speed, Nightmist/Blue-White Pony
1968 GT500 #685 - 428 PI, C6 auto, Wimbledon White/Black
1969 Mach 1 R-code with Shaker - 428CJ, 4-speed, Black Jade/Black
69mach351w
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« Reply #10 on: October 10, 2017, 04:33:49 PM »

Eastwood underhood semi gloss black rattle can, sprayed 2004.  Eastwood high temp engine paint ford corp blue rattle can, sprayed in 2010. Driven approximately 1500 miles/yr.  Never any touch up, chips, fading, etc.

Also to add, used Eastwood high temp exhaust manifold coating, sprayed 2010. Perfect results for the Concours "Driven" class that I ultimately graduated to the Conservator class in MCA.



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« Last Edit: October 10, 2017, 04:35:34 PM by 69mach351w » Logged

'69 Mach1 MCA Concours Conservator #105
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gjz30075
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« Reply #11 on: October 23, 2017, 08:13:12 AM »

69Mach1..   Eastwood shows two Ford blues.    Which one did you use?
http://www.eastwood.com/2k-aerospray-ht-engine-paint-ford-blue-1966-80.html

or

http://www.eastwood.com/2k-aerospray-high-temp-ceramic-engine-paint.html


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Greg Z
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69mach351w
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« Reply #12 on: October 23, 2017, 09:47:39 AM »

In 2010, I didn't use either of those two newer  2K Aerospray high temp paints that Eastwood markets today.  I just used their Eastwood Engine enamel Ford Corporate Blue, the cheaper stuff back then, and still I'm getting great results.  I'm sure the new age 2K Aerospray is even better than what I used.
Also, Eastwood does have their ceramic engine paint that they market as part#51623ZP. This isn't what I used though, but I have never had ANY trouble with Eastwood's paints.

As a footnote:
I used Ford Corporate blue for my 69 mach 1. So, your paint application will depend on what year your Mustang is.
Hope this helps,
Rich

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'69 Mach1 MCA Concours Conservator #105
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