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Author Topic: What oil to use and should I use an oil treatment?  (Read 2293 times)
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Corey.Bowcutt
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« Reply #15 on: May 03, 2017, 05:18:23 AM »

Thank you all for so many great inputs and insights.  There is a lot to digest here but this has been extremely educational and helpful.

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zray
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« Reply #16 on: May 03, 2017, 06:53:57 AM »

Everybody has their favorite oil, and filter. All of which are probably top notch.  There are several great choices for vintage engines.

Of equal or greater importance in keeping the oil changed regularly, at least once a year, even of the car is seldom driven. All oil manufacturers agree that oi should not be kept in the crankcase during the "off season" after its been thru several hot and cold cycles.  The normal blow-by combustion gases contain corrosive acids that mix with the crankcase oil. Those will eat your engine if left to sit for many weeks or months.  

Always change the oil and filter before storage.

Z

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Illinicane
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« Reply #17 on: May 03, 2017, 07:08:49 AM »

I only use Valvoline Racing VR1 20w50.

I will be changing oil soon on my 65, and based on Nick (and Don Hoevel) recommendation, will also use this oil.

Found this on line with respect to the VR1 oil:

Valvoline™ VR1 Racing Oil's high zinc provides race-level protection for high performance engines on the race track or the highway. Valvoline Racing Oil's exclusive chemistry is designed to reduce friction and enhance power. It is among the most popular engine lubricants in all types of racing including paved and dirt ovals, and drag racing. Formulated for race engines, but compatible with passenger vehicles too.

Valvoline™ VR1 Racing Oil's high zinc provides race-level protection for high performance engines on the race track and is compatible with passenger vehicles. Additional product benefits include:

High zinc/phosphorus for anti-wear protection, including push-rod and flat tappet applications
Formulated to increase horsepower
Enhanced anti-foam system protects engine during extreme stress
Recommended for engines burning gasoline and full or partial alcohol fuels


I think you will find there are several good options. 

 Chug a Lug



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« Reply #18 on: May 03, 2017, 07:39:04 AM »

Guys, I've attached a link for a lengthy article regarding engine oils. It is by far the BEST and most comprehensive article that I've ever read. There is a ton of un-biased test data in the article which will put factors related to engine oil into context. This is a long read but is well worth it! You guys that race your cars can benefit the most due to the fact that you are running your cars harder and wear/failures are more of a concern. The author is a test engineer and is not biased toward any particular oil-has just gives you FACTS. I think that the biggest benefit regarding oil selection is that you will be able to determine which oils NOT to use.

Its worth the read.

Frank



https://540ratblog.wordpress.com

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« Reply #19 on: May 03, 2017, 09:37:09 AM »


Always change the oil and filter before storage.

Z

Hi Zray,  This is a good suggestion.  I have been changing in the Spring before getting the car out.  I will now change in the Fall.

Thank you

Cory

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« Reply #20 on: May 03, 2017, 10:09:14 AM »

And to be honest, I'm not running the 24hrs of Daytona in my car. I'm not doing 1/4 mile runs. I'm not taking it on a road course. For my purposes, I'm sure any respectable oil is fine for cruising around. I think that changing it on a regular schedule is the best thing of all.

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robert campbell
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« Reply #21 on: May 03, 2017, 01:58:39 PM »

And to be honest, I'm not running the 24hrs of Daytona in my car. I'm not doing 1/4 mile runs. I'm not taking it on a road course. For my purposes, I'm sure any respectable oil is fine for cruising around. I think that changing it on a regular schedule is the best thing of all.

+1
Annual oil changes is the best thing.  Thoughts on oil weights and brands are endless.

Rob

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zray
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« Reply #22 on: May 03, 2017, 02:25:36 PM »



It's an interesting read to be sure.  Among the many  other items he presents,  I have heard elsewhere the assertion he makes, that too much zddp (over 2,000 ppm, is harmful vecause it "atracks the metal at the grain boundary...".  Does that sound familiar to anyone ?

AFAIK, all the Mobil 1 products are under that 2,000 ppm number, including the racing oils which come in at 1750/1850 ppm zinc / phosphorus.   Anyone know of a commercially available oll that  has in excess of 2,000 ppm zddp ..... ??

However, despite the many nuggets of information provided, overall, this type of presentation shoots itself in the foot by the all displayed  grandiosity.   I cannot help but be skeptical of someone who starts off by asserting that this is information that  "...CANNOT be found anywhere else, [except, (sic)] by reading below...". Plus the fact that he uses the word " I " more than a 4 year old child is very disconcerting. .  He clearly has a  personality disorder(s) of the exaggerated self importance type.

I get the feeling he was fired by some major player in the oil business because no one could stand to be around him. And these white papers are an attempt to get back at those less talented people,who didn't appreciate his particular brand of genius.

 Z




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rkm
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« Reply #23 on: May 03, 2017, 03:51:13 PM »

ZRAY, I'm still using Pennzoil 25w50 Racing oil. I think it has 2200 ppm. I spoke with someone at their Houston head office last fall (Mike Blythe) who told me they have NOT reduced the ZDDP in this oil for a long time.

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FL SAAC TONY
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« Reply #24 on: May 03, 2017, 04:03:56 PM »

one last mention, only the 15W-50 viscosity Mobil 1 has enough zinc and phosphorous for adequate protection.  other viscosity mobil 1 oils do not. 

adding zddp or other products is an additional cost to the consumer and not as effective as buying the oil with the proper amounts of zinc and phosphorous already added by the oil manufacturer during the blending process.

keep it simple mobil 1 , good oil filter once a year, stick a fork in it, your done   

Hi Corey,

we have been using mobil 1 for many, many years.

we change the oil and filter once per year, does not matter if we ran it 500 or 5,000 miles it does not matter to us.

just recently mobil came out advertising their oils as the once per year oil change, nice.

this is what sold us back in the day:

when mobil 1 came into the market in the 70s they tested several florida highway patrol cars. these cars had 0 miles and ran over 100,000 miles on their odometers.

if you take into account the 100,000 miles accounted on a fhp vehicle,  its actually more than that.

why, because most trooper vehicles are always running even when they are stopped.

during the travel to 100,000 miles the oil was never changed.

if memory serves me well, i believe that at every 5,000 mile they would come in and the oil filter was changed and the oil topped off.

during regular maintenance checks if needed oil, antifreeze was added and repairs were made.

at or about 100,000 miles these vehicles were pulled back in and their 440 motors pulled apart for inspection.

almost zero wear was found on the bearings, crank, pistons, cam, lifters, or any of the rotating parts.

this sold us on mobil 1

mobil 1 pricey then and pricey today, but if you do a cost analysis, once a year versus two or three times with the competitors oil, plus filters and time savings, its a bargain.

has worked for us running big and small blocks and we dont drive them like sunady school teachers.

hope this helps 



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s2ms
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« Reply #25 on: May 03, 2017, 07:49:25 PM »

Guys, I've attached a link for a lengthy article regarding engine oils. It is by far the BEST and most comprehensive article that I've ever read. There is a ton of un-biased test data in the article which will put factors related to engine oil into context. This is a long read but is well worth it! You guys that race your cars can benefit the most due to the fact that you are running your cars harder and wear/failures are more of a concern. The author is a test engineer and is not biased toward any particular oil-has just gives you FACTS. I think that the biggest benefit regarding oil selection is that you will be able to determine which oils NOT to use.

Its worth the read.

Frank

https://540ratblog.wordpress.com

Interesting comments on viscosity.

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Dave
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rkm
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« Reply #26 on: May 04, 2017, 01:21:35 PM »

Pennzoil 25w50 racing oil 1980 to 2000 ppm Zinc

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FL SAAC TONY
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« Reply #27 on: May 04, 2017, 05:25:10 PM »

depending on variables

we are in florida and have gotten best results with 15w50 on older motors.

on new engines we have run 0w20 and have seen hp gains


Interesting comments on viscosity.


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zray
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« Reply #28 on: May 04, 2017, 07:13:15 PM »

depending on variables

we are in florida and have gotten best results with 15w50 on older motors.

on new engines we have run 0w20 and have seen hp gains

Were you able to do any oil vs. HP dyno comparisons ? 

I saw one where the Mobil 1 15w-50 was compared to the racing Mobil 1, 0w-30 I think it was. There was a HP gain with the lighter racing oil in the neighborhood of 5-7 HP, , but it didn't show up until the rpm got up to 5k and over. Under 4,500 the difference was negligible. Now if I was racing I'd certainly want those 5-7 HP for sure, but I'd heard the difference was more substantial.

Z

 

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sg66
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« Reply #29 on: September 12, 2017, 05:06:57 PM »

Guys, I've attached a link for a lengthy article regarding engine oils. It is by far the BEST and most comprehensive article that I've ever read. There is a ton of un-biased test data in the article which will put factors related to engine oil into context. This is a long read but is well worth it! You guys that race your cars can benefit the most due to the fact that you are running your cars harder and wear/failures are more of a concern. The author is a test engineer and is not biased toward any particular oil-has just gives you FACTS. I think that the biggest benefit regarding oil selection is that you will be able to determine which oils NOT to use.

Its worth the read.

Frank



https://540ratblog.wordpress.com
This was a good read and prompted me to research a little more before changing oil this year but still came back the Mobil 1 15/50 synthetic which I've been using for the past 20+ years in my Hipo.

Here are the Mobil 1 specs for 2017 which specifically call out 15/50 for older flat tappet performance motros  https://mobiloil.com/~/media/amer/us/pvl/files/pdfs/mobil-1-oil-product-specs-guide.pdf

One thing I learned from a GM tech bulletin posted on a Corvette forum is that oil manufactures were lowering ZDDP because phosphorus (good to prevent metal gouging) is like poison to to catalytic converters which is why the numbers are lower on newer cars. As others have already noted, too much zinc along with too much phosphorous is counter productive.

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