The Official SAAC Forum
December 15, 2017, 10:20:38 PM *
Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.
Did you miss your activation email?

Login with username, password and session length
News:
 
   Home   Login Register Search New Photo Gallery Calendar Contact Chat  
Pages: [1] 2   Go Down
  Print  
Author Topic: '67 GT350 starts, idles rough, then stalls  (Read 2049 times)
0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.
Tusk
SAAC Member
Jr. Member
*
Offline Offline

Posts: 89


'67 GT350 #2629


« on: March 24, 2017, 11:59:25 AM »

Hey all,

I'm needing a little help diagnosing my '67 GT350. Original 289 HiPo that hasn't been torn apart. The car is pretty dang really hard to get started when cold and there have been a few times I couldn't even get her running.

Starting last weekend, I took her out for a drive and it stalled out a few times when I came to a stop and the RPMs dropped down. It'll also stall when parked and idling in neutral. I can keep it from stalling if I apply the slightest bit of throttle.

I'm not exactly an expert when it comes to this car. Hell, it's 20 years older than me! With that said, what should I be looking for? Fuel delivery problems?

I plan on pulling the fuel filter this weekend and seeing if it's clogged up. I have a feeling the fuel tank is quite a mess.

I've only had my car for about 2 years, so I'm still learning something every day about it. I've contacted the engine builder who has worked on it on and off for the past 14 years when my father-in-law owned it. He said it's low on compression, needs a new clutch and other items, so I'm going to try to get it up to his shop in the next few weeks. Fun stuff!

Thanks in advance!

Dalton


« Last Edit: March 24, 2017, 05:42:36 PM by Tusk » Logged

Wood27man
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 789


Email
« Reply #1 on: March 24, 2017, 12:33:24 PM »

Hey Dalton, let's get you running smooth again. First off, can you tell us what carburetor you have on your car? Is it a Holley?
      It sure sounds like a little tuning of the carb may cure the idle problem. I'm going to guess your fuel filter and gas tank are fine or the car would run like crap all the time. I would start by checking the float level, adjusting the idle screws, the timing and the idle speed. But for openers let us know what type of carb you have and we can go step by step.
Jeff
PS - great picture!

Logged
car 26-JD
Hero Member
*****
*
Offline Offline

Posts: 3584



« Reply #2 on: March 24, 2017, 12:50:24 PM »

Power valve??

wasn't there a similar issue with a different car about a month ago?

EDIT
Here is a link to the other thread regarding some not running issue.  might be of some help (yes the car was a '66 GT350 but basically it's the same carb/engine)

http://saacforum.com/index.php?topic=38938.0

« Last Edit: March 24, 2017, 01:48:12 PM by car 26-JD » Logged
Tusk
SAAC Member
Jr. Member
*
Offline Offline

Posts: 89


'67 GT350 #2629


« Reply #3 on: March 24, 2017, 01:32:07 PM »

Hey Dalton, let's get you running smooth again. First off, can you tell us what carburetor you have on your car? Is it a Holley?
      It sure sounds like a little tuning of the carb may cure the idle problem. I'm going to guess your fuel filter and gas tank are fine or the car would run like crap all the time. I would start by checking the float level, adjusting the idle screws, the timing and the idle speed. But for openers let us know what type of carb you have and we can go step by step.
Jeff
PS - great picture!

Haha thanks. That's my driving buddy on the backroads. He loves 'Snake Car' and is pretty excited it's turning 50 this year.

It's a Holley 715. I'm pretty sure my late father-in-law rebuilt the carb 3 years ago. It looks brand new but it leaks all over the intake manifold.

I'll have to educate myself more on tuning the carb.

Here's the only close-up picture I have on my computer. See the area where the leak is behind the spark plug wires?

Don't mind the incorrect items such as the spark plug wires. They've been replaced. Smiley



Logged

67-1690
Hero Member
*****
*
Offline Offline

Posts: 1486



Email
« Reply #4 on: March 24, 2017, 02:41:18 PM »

I would highly recommend driving with valve covers on as well.

 Grin

Logged

'67 GT-350 #1690
'66 Coupe, 289, my first car....still have it.
ERA 289 FIA-USRRC Replica Cobra
richstang
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 2741


« Reply #5 on: March 24, 2017, 02:42:05 PM »

I would highly recommend driving with valve covers on as well.

 Grin

 Hysterical

 HeadSpin

Logged
Tusk
SAAC Member
Jr. Member
*
Offline Offline

Posts: 89


'67 GT350 #2629


« Reply #6 on: March 24, 2017, 03:07:00 PM »

I would highly recommend driving with valve covers on as well.

 Grin

Haha! It's easier to hear the valve train!

« Last Edit: March 24, 2017, 03:09:19 PM by Tusk » Logged

Wood27man
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 789


Email
« Reply #7 on: March 24, 2017, 03:50:10 PM »

With gas leaking out, you may have a stuck float inside the carburetor bowl.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ge-mIk6nEYQ

Check the floats according to this Holley video. If you get gas pouring (not a trickle but
pouring) out of one of the bowls when you remove the plug, the float is stuck open. This is easy to check and takes just a few mintues. Let us know what you find.

Logged
Tusk
SAAC Member
Jr. Member
*
Offline Offline

Posts: 89


'67 GT350 #2629


« Reply #8 on: March 24, 2017, 07:44:36 PM »

Power valve??

wasn't there a similar issue with a different car about a month ago?

EDIT
Here is a link to the other thread regarding some not running issue.  might be of some help (yes the car was a '66 GT350 but basically it's the same carb/engine)

http://saacforum.com/index.php?topic=38938.0

Thanks JD. That thread gives me a few items that I need to check.

With gas leaking out, you may have a stuck float inside the carburetor bowl.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ge-mIk6nEYQ

Check the floats according to this Holley video. If you get gas pouring (not a trickle but
pouring) out of one of the bowls when you remove the plug, the float is stuck open. This is easy to check and takes just a few mintues. Let us know what you find.

I plan on getting out in the garage tomorrow to check this out. I've watched several of the Holley videos but not that one. Thanks for the link!

Logged

67350#1242
Sr. Member
****
Offline Offline

Posts: 427



« Reply #9 on: March 25, 2017, 06:17:42 AM »

Quote
Check the floats according to this Holley video. If you get gas pouring (not a trickle but
pouring) out of one of the bowls when you remove the plug, the float is stuck open. This is easy to check and takes just a few mintues.
Unfortunately, the stock LeMans bowl carb doesn't have a sight plug in the bowl.

Logged
johnsshelby
Hero Member
*****
*
Offline Offline

Posts: 823

oh honey, let me buy it......


Email
« Reply #10 on: March 25, 2017, 08:34:01 AM »

You can buy the sight-plugs  from Jegs or Summit if you wish to.   Hope this helps.

Logged
Tusk
SAAC Member
Jr. Member
*
Offline Offline

Posts: 89


'67 GT350 #2629


« Reply #11 on: March 25, 2017, 12:59:37 PM »

Here are a few more pictures. There's fuel all over the carb. Entire engine bay smells like fuel.

I'm also getting some fluid sitting on top of the back of the intake manifold. Looks like coolant.



Fuel is leaking and still wet near the right arrow.



Fuel is pooled up where the bottom arrows point on the next two images.





Didn't even take the manifold off to paint it?  Undecided





« Last Edit: March 25, 2017, 01:01:17 PM by Tusk » Logged

67350#1242
Sr. Member
****
Offline Offline

Posts: 427



« Reply #12 on: March 25, 2017, 02:51:18 PM »

You should see if the fuel bowl screws are snugged up. The gaskets compress over time and they will need retightened.
When car is running, look down into the carb and see if fuel is dripping from the booster venturis. Should look dry on top when idling.

From the pictures, it looks like the fuel bowls need tightening - if they are loose internal vacuum leaks in the metering blocks can happen and it will run like crap.
Kurt.

Logged
6s1802
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 636


Email
« Reply #13 on: March 25, 2017, 03:52:37 PM »

Welcome to the world of the leaking 715 Holley. Mine on 6S1802 has a leak between the main body and the metering block that even milling the back of the main body didn't fix.

Logged
Tusk
SAAC Member
Jr. Member
*
Offline Offline

Posts: 89


'67 GT350 #2629


« Reply #14 on: March 25, 2017, 07:11:14 PM »

Welcome to the world of the leaking 715 Holley. Mine on 6S1802 has a leak between the main body and the metering block that even milling the back of the main body didn't fix.

Good to know! Haha!

Logged

Pages: [1] 2   Go Up
  Print  
 
Jump to:  

Site Customized by DragonFly Designs StatsPowered by MySQL Powered by PHP Powered by SMF 1.1.11 | SMF © 2006-2009, Simple Machines LLC Valid XHTML 1.0! Valid CSS!