The Official SAAC Forum
May 24, 2017, 02:54:21 AM *
Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.
Did you miss your activation email?

Login with username, password and session length
News:
 
   Home   Login Register Search New Photo Gallery Calendar Contact Chat  
Pages: [1]   Go Down
  Print  
Author Topic: Accessing brake scoop mounting area  (Read 537 times)
0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.
557
SAAC Member
Hero Member
*
Offline Offline

Posts: 980


Email
« on: March 19, 2017, 02:22:49 PM »

One of my brake scoops came loose..luckily it's ducted so it didn't fall off...it looks like someone screwed up the hardware(probably when it was repainted)so the metal stud seemed to be bonded to the scoop with silicone or something which is where it failed...I am good with fiberglass repairs so I think I can reattach the studs to the scoop..my question is how much interior disassembly do I need to do to access where I will need to bolt it back on from the backside?i REALLY don't want to break anything and it has probably never been apart...thanks!! Trent

Logged
Bob Gaines
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 14001


« Reply #1 on: March 19, 2017, 04:18:01 PM »

One of my brake scoops came loose..luckily it's ducted so it didn't fall off...it looks like someone screwed up the hardware(probably when it was repainted)so the metal stud seemed to be bonded to the scoop with silicone or something which is where it failed...I am good with fiberglass repairs so I think I can reattach the studs to the scoop..my question is how much interior disassembly do I need to do to access where I will need to bolt it back on from the backside?i REALLY don't want to break anything and it has probably never been apart...thanks!! Trent
To gain access to the studs and nuts you will have to take out the interior quarter panels and all of the associated steps that it entails. Back seat ,fold down other trim etc.

Logged

Shelby Car Enthusiast, Collector, Shelby Concours Judge
car 26-JD
Hero Member
*****
*
Offline Offline

Posts: 3281



« Reply #2 on: March 19, 2017, 04:34:23 PM »

To gain access to the studs and nuts you will have to take out the interior quarter panels and all of the associated steps that it entails. Back seat ,fold down other trim etc.

A lot of the interior, after the seat is out - start at the top and work down, until you can remove the large lower panel.  There are some rivets to drill out to if I remember right.  And yes be very careful and if the pint is original don't scratch it.  If the interior is "black" it's not really black - it's charcoal gray metallic

Logged

1967 GT350 - car #26
557
SAAC Member
Hero Member
*
Offline Offline

Posts: 980


Email
« Reply #3 on: March 19, 2017, 07:33:16 PM »

Thanks for the quick replies...I suspected as much...... Head knock

Logged
557
SAAC Member
Hero Member
*
Offline Offline

Posts: 980


Email
« Reply #4 on: March 19, 2017, 11:26:43 PM »

Anyone got an idea for a Mickey Mouse repair to keep this thing from falling off before I get around to ripping apart my interior?adhesive to body or something?i will likely drive the car before I get around to fixing this properly and doubt that the brake ducting tube will hold it on for long.where did they source this stuff from originally anyway?a clothes dryer? Roll Eyes

Logged
Chris NOS
Hero Member
*****
*
Offline Offline

Posts: 927


5S241 proud owner


Email
« Reply #5 on: March 20, 2017, 02:31:55 AM »

Why don't you remove it from the car now ? then it will be safe in your garage and maybe avoiding problem with paint in trying to glue it and remove it after with out damage...

Logged
docket
Newbie
*
*
Offline Offline

Posts: 43


1967 GT500 Factory Red/Factory AC, 2005 Ford GT


Email
« Reply #6 on: March 20, 2017, 05:07:32 AM »

5200 will stick anything.  Just don't use a ton so you can get it apart

Logged
Rodney T
SAAC Member
Hero Member
*
Offline Offline

Posts: 1561


Email
« Reply #7 on: March 20, 2017, 07:34:20 AM »

  This might be "iffy" if you have large arms but:  Take off the narrow center strip.  Remove the screws that hold the lower panel, remove the screws nearest the door jam, and the metal scuff plate.  Now, you might be able to pull the panel in (away) to reach in and tighten it.  You might have to take off the upper section with also means taking down the roof sections.
  Double check before rolling around town as it could be the fiberglass has given away and the scoop would fall off soon anyway.

Logged
greekz
Hero Member
*****
*
Offline Offline

Posts: 841



« Reply #8 on: March 20, 2017, 08:35:44 AM »

Why don't you remove it from the car now ? then it will be safe in your garage and maybe avoiding problem with paint in trying to glue it and remove it after with out damage...

I agree.  Sometimes you just have to bite the bullet and make the correct repair.  Sure, a "Mickey Mouse" repair might be a short term fix, but you could create other problems.  In the long run you will be much happier with the correct repair.

Greek

Logged

6S1134 - '67 GT-350 #2339
owenkelley
Full Member
***
Offline Offline

Posts: 200


Email
« Reply #9 on: March 20, 2017, 08:54:28 AM »

It's really not that hard of a job to remove the fold down seat and the required panels of the interior. I've taken the interior out of every fastback I've ever owned. I would just do it the proper way to start with and then you're done.

Logged

'67 GT500
'87 GLHS
'07 GT500
Pages: [1]   Go Up
  Print  
 
Jump to:  

Site Customized by DragonFly Designs StatsPowered by MySQL Powered by PHP Powered by SMF 1.1.11 | SMF © 2006-2009, Simple Machines LLC Valid XHTML 1.0! Valid CSS!