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Author Topic: 6S1422 Restoration  (Read 11815 times)
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6S1640
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« Reply #30 on: February 02, 2017, 11:39:25 AM »


      The "A" servo cover is for non HiPo applications. A "close" reproduction ( 100% function wise) is offered by California Pony Cars. It has the large C and casting number but lacks the Ford logo. I can supply a repro valve body and am working on repro governor assemblies.

Bummer on the tranny.  Randy is correct.  A functional HiPo C4 can be built.  The tranny pieces, other than the servo can be modified from the LoPo C4 tranny parts.  When you pull the tranny, check the flex plate too for HiPo designation.  It is part marked C4OE-6375-C or other painted markings such as orange paint, Special or HP according to Bob Mannel.  It is weighted by adding weld material to the counter balance to get to the the 30.4 oz imbalance.  A HiPo flex plate can be made from the LoPo 26.2 oz imbalance.  I helped a buddy recently to fabricate the HiPo flex plate.

Best regards

Cory

« Last Edit: February 02, 2017, 11:43:40 AM by 6S1640 » Logged
redvettemike
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« Reply #31 on: February 02, 2017, 12:13:38 PM »

On the rear end: what we think this is the original (shown below). It has ring gear with 32 teeth and a pinion with 10 teeth. There is another ring and pinion which has 32 ring and 7 pinion. They were likely drag racing this vehicle before 1987. It was parked and unused from 1987 until 2014. The Strange rear end in the car now seems also to be a 3.5 ratio.   



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gt350hr
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« Reply #32 on: February 02, 2017, 01:42:33 PM »

     Mike,
        The diff case pictured could be ( date dependent ) the original. ( 5L , M or 6A might be there) The pinion retainer ( held in by the five bolts) is not "original" as it is a "Daytona" pinion retainer normally associated with a "nodular" case like '67 GT500s and CJ and Boss cars got. There is no way it was used with a "standard" case. The 7-32 set is 4.57 ratio and would have been the drag gears.  the 10-32 set would be 3.20 and is not a common ratio. You might recheck the tooth count. If it's 9-32 is is a more common 3.56 ratio.
      Randy

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owner 6S477 HERTZ White w/Blue stripes-1of18-since 1974. OVER 3,500 drag strip runs made in it since then. My candidate for the "worlds Most drag raced Shelby" More added all the time.
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« Reply #33 on: February 02, 2017, 02:15:09 PM »

     Mike,
        The diff case pictured could be ( date dependent ) the original. ( 5L , M or 6A might be there) The pinion retainer ( held in by the five bolts) is not "original" as it is a "Daytona" pinion retainer normally associated with a "nodular" case like '67 GT500s and CJ and Boss cars got. There is no way it was used with a "standard" case. The 7-32 set is 4.57 ratio and would have been the drag gears.  the 10-32 set would be 3.20 and is not a common ratio. You might recheck the tooth count. If it's 9-32 is is a more common 3.56 ratio.
      Randy

On the case itself is this "5E8". then also "D" and "29" and "DIF".
 
On the ring around the pinion cover is "RF-C4AW-4658-A" and then "1 26". Some of those numbers/letters are hard to read and may be wrong.   

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« Reply #34 on: February 02, 2017, 04:00:30 PM »

     5E8 is May 8th 1965, waaaay early for what the car is.

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owner 6S477 HERTZ White w/Blue stripes-1of18-since 1974. OVER 3,500 drag strip runs made in it since then. My candidate for the "worlds Most drag raced Shelby" More added all the time.
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« Reply #35 on: February 11, 2017, 08:14:00 AM »

Can you folks advise the correct color for the engine in this '66? Can you advise what vendor might have same in a quart? We bought 200+ pounds of parts from Brant at Virginia Classic Mustang. Great service there.



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J_Speegle
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« Reply #36 on: February 11, 2017, 01:34:06 PM »

Can you folks advise the correct color for the engine in this '66? Can you advise what vendor might have same in a quart? ...................

What has been suggested and shared for many years. Sure it can also be found on this site using the search feature

Ditzler DAR 13358 acrylic enamel
Mix it with some DXR 80 Delthane Ultra Urethane Hardener and somewhere between 15-20% Ditzler DX 265 All Purpose Flatting Base,Less than 20% flattener

8 parts color + 6 parts reducer (DTR 601 or 602) depending on weather etc + 1 part DXR 80-then DX 265 flatter


http://saacforum.com/index.php?topic=33858.0


http://saacforum.com/index.php?topic=18485.15





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Jeff Speegle
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« Reply #37 on: February 15, 2017, 04:18:58 PM »

Getting the old paint off. There has been some minor collision work done in the past. No rust found.



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redvettemike
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« Reply #38 on: February 15, 2017, 04:24:28 PM »

Getting the interior out. It is in really good condition (however the front seats have been recovered and it has a new headliner). New tires; new windshield ordered. Brant Halterman has been of much service on this work. 



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redvettemike
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« Reply #39 on: February 17, 2017, 06:48:36 AM »

I have done a search(s) with no luck. For this '66 (built, I think, March 1966) would the original shock absorbers have been blue 'Ford' branded items? If not so, please advise. if so, what color is that blue? Tks,
Mike     

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Brant
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« Reply #40 on: February 17, 2017, 07:02:09 AM »

I have done a search(s) with no luck. For this '66 (built, I think, March 1966) would the original shock absorbers have been blue 'Ford' branded items? If not so, please advise. if so, what color is that blue? Tks,
Mike     

Mike,

Here's a picture of the original front shocks. They are tough to find. You may want to consider just running Koni shocks or selecting a nice shock and painting it a blue like this.

http://blog.virginiaclassicmustang.com/2013/11/just-details1966-shelby-gt350-shocks.html





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-Brant

www.VirginiaClassicMustang.com

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« Reply #41 on: February 19, 2017, 02:04:36 PM »

I have done a search(s) with no luck. For this '66 (built, I think, March 1966) would the original shock absorbers have been blue 'Ford' branded items? If not so, please advise. if so, what color is that blue?

I had the color - color match from a set of original - since the tints have all been reformulated that "code" isn't going to be of any help. Color is similar IMHO to a number of the Ford engine rattle can colors Not as dark or light as some - but a true blue

For showing if you can find a old set of aftermarket shocks with the right look for the rear ones (spot welded dust shield - bell shaped at the top and so on-  fill the markings in and painting the correctly you will likely be ok in all but the most difficult class but it always depends on where you show Wink

For the fronts there are aftermarket shocks where the body is shaped differently from the originals (difficult to see other than crawling under the car at the right angle)  but they have a similar washer at the top to the originals. There is often a number in the metal that holds the top bushing that can be filled in them you can paint the whole thing and go with them




There are a number of past threads covering originals and the difference if you want to look and consider that information


http://saacforum.com/index.php?topic=20888.0

http://saacforum.com/index.php?topic=33683.0

http://saacforum.com/index.php?topic=24085.0

http://saacforum.com/index.php?topic=11257.0


http://saacforum.com/index.php?topic=38915.0


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Jeff Speegle
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« Reply #42 on: February 22, 2017, 03:38:28 AM »

Tks for any/all advice. We are stripping the car. The body is in good shape (at least on the passenger side). 



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CorvetteMike (formerly mikeljgt500kr)
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« Reply #43 on: February 22, 2017, 09:01:38 AM »

Looks like a real nice car and interesting project, good luck...... Chug a Lug

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« Reply #44 on: February 22, 2017, 10:21:48 AM »

Nice bones on this car.  I still would have simply driven it as is.  However, I understand the owner's desire to have it as nice as possible.  Tip of the hat to him and to you for attempting to do this right.  Thanks for the updates - I really enjoy them and good luck with the project. PeelOut

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