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Author Topic: Engine Bay Restoration - Car #100 GT350 Convertible  (Read 14842 times)
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94Cobra
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« Reply #30 on: March 01, 2017, 04:29:49 PM »

short block photos.





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« Last Edit: March 01, 2017, 04:31:34 PM by 94Cobra » Logged
94Cobra
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« Reply #31 on: March 01, 2017, 04:54:04 PM »

After glass beading, the pitting does not look too bad to me on the manifolds.  Is there a product that I could put on to fill in some of the pits?  I will see what Eastwood offers.  I've had good luck with their products.



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Bob Gaines
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« Reply #32 on: March 01, 2017, 05:15:55 PM »

After glass beading, the pitting does not look too bad to me on the manifolds.  Is there a product that I could put on to fill in some of the pits?  I will see what Eastwood offers.  I've had good luck with their products.
They don't look too bad. You can send them to jet hot (the best IMO) or put on another mfg high heat coating . Jet hot is the most expensive i think.  My local powdercoater use techline products which have held up well but not quite as good as jet hot headers I have had done. My powdercoater sprays the techline and is local so it is convenient.  Most of the coatings will fill in the pits some what . As little pitting as I see in the picture relative speaking most likely most will fill in your case. The high heat filler that Eastwood sells Lab-Metal  is for use on powdercoated  parts that require high heat to cure. I can't imagine it holding up at the much higher heat levels the exhaust manifolds will reach. I wouldn't risk it if it were me.

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« Reply #33 on: March 01, 2017, 05:51:12 PM »

That piston looks almost up out of the bore ... that would affect the quench in the combustion chambers promoting pinging . Maybe its just the picture... or I'm wrong  Undecided

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« Reply #34 on: March 05, 2017, 07:16:54 AM »

That piston looks almost up out of the bore ... that would affect the quench in the combustion chambers promoting pinging . Maybe its just the picture... or I'm wrong  Undecided

Thanks for noticing that.  I will ask him about it since he told me they were at zero deck.  It looks like the opposite side of the same piston that appears above the deck is slightly below the deck.

I found out that my lifter bores were all out of round and egg shaped.  My builder bored my lifter bores and ordered custom sized link bar lifters to fit the new bores.  I never heard of this before.  Is this commonly done in a rebuild?  

The builder used a IWIS timing chain that is pre-stretched.  The Rollmaster timing set has a torrington bearing to reduce friction.  I don't know much about this stuff other than it is expensive.  

« Last Edit: March 05, 2017, 07:21:31 AM by 94Cobra » Logged
Illinicane
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« Reply #35 on: March 07, 2017, 08:28:59 PM »


Nice job and appreciate the updates, pics and work you are doing.

 Chug a Lug



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« Reply #36 on: March 12, 2017, 07:12:08 AM »

Nice job and appreciate the updates, pics and work you are doing.

 Chug a Lug



Thanks.  I enjoy seeing other people post restoration work photos so I thought I would do it also.  Plus, it documents what was done to the car.  

I put a quartz movement in the clock yesterday and installed a new clock lens.  I tested it overnight and it now keeps perfect time.  I also have the headlight harness mostly installed.  I am waiting for a new solenoid so I can test the headlights, turn signals, and instruments.  

One set back I had was I accidentally stripped the tiny allen set screw on my Shelby wood automatic shifter handle where it attaches to shift lever.  I am going to have to get it drilled out and re-tapped to the next larger size, but that may not happen for a few months.  I don't know what size to buy or how to check.  I may just install a Mach 1 handle for now.  





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« Reply #37 on: March 18, 2017, 07:19:48 AM »

I tested the new headlight harness by using a temporary ground to chassis.  Everything works except the left turn signal blinker on the instrument bezel.  I probably need a new printed circuit board.  Front turn signals were not working in the photo, but the ground wasn't tight on the turn signal housings.   

 



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corbins
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« Reply #38 on: March 19, 2017, 01:14:22 PM »

Cool! looks like good progress is being made.


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« Reply #39 on: March 19, 2017, 03:37:21 PM »

Using a ohm meter, I found out the left turn signal circuit is open.  I ordered a US Made printed circuit board.  

I cleaned the grease off the original vacuum tube for the tilt away.  I was surprised to see how nice they look.  Nice blue/green stripes on them.  

I got some of the 2 part hardened black paint on a section of my metal brake lines in the engine bay.  Lacquer thinner doesn't remove this paint at all.  Is there anything that will take some overspray off?









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« Last Edit: March 19, 2017, 03:51:20 PM by 94Cobra » Logged
shelbymann1970
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« Reply #40 on: March 22, 2017, 11:07:46 AM »

Gauge cluster back together after getting the vacuum metalizing restored.  




Bob, who did the vacuum metalizing? Paint also? Thanks. Gary

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« Reply #41 on: March 22, 2017, 05:43:59 PM »

Bob, who did the vacuum metalizing? Paint also? Thanks. Gary

Vacuum Orna-Metal in Michigan.  They did a real nice job. 

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« Reply #42 on: March 26, 2017, 04:02:22 PM »

I upgraded to LED lights in my Faria gauges, clock, and instrument lights.  They are a big improvement.  I couldn't read my Faria gauges with incandescent bulbs in them. 

The new printed circuit board fixed the left turn signal dash indicator that wasn't working. 






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« Reply #43 on: March 26, 2017, 04:11:59 PM »

Looks good. Details on the leds?

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94Cobra
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« Reply #44 on: March 26, 2017, 04:21:37 PM »

Looks good. Details on the leds?

After a lot of research and phone calls, I think the best LEDs are made by a company called HiPo Parts in Gaylord, Michigan.  They actually angle their led housings to ensure they reflect more light.  Also, they are the only LED company that offers a "Factory Color" option.  The other companies leave you guessing whether to order white, green, or blue LED lights.  Bill the owner is a super knowledgeable Mustanger.  I got the Elite series light kit in Factory color and 4 1895 bulbs - 2 for clock and 2 for Faria gauges.  Very happy with them. 

Here is the link.  https://www.hipoparts.com/1965-73-ford-mustang-led-gauge-light-conversion-kit/

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