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Author Topic: Engine Bay Restoration - Car #100 GT350 Convertible  (Read 14344 times)
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dan353
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« Reply #60 on: May 31, 2017, 03:53:10 AM »

Thank you for the information

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Bob Gaines
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« Reply #61 on: May 31, 2017, 06:29:42 AM »

Thank you for the information
FYI you mask off the spark plug wire clips and filler neck tube if not installing new or replated parts. After the wrinkle starts to kick off good I carefully scrape off soft paint dragging a razor blade across the top of fins for less effort in final sanding (one direction only) once hard. 80,100,and 150 is final grit. Chug a Lug

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« Reply #62 on: May 31, 2017, 08:45:49 AM »

I suppose it was a trade-off.  I really wanted to use 2 stage hardened paint on the covers and I couldn't find wrinkle paint that is 2 stage.   
I used wrinkle paint from NPD on my 68 and still was mint 6 years later when I sold the car.   

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« Reply #63 on: June 05, 2017, 07:02:04 PM »

Engine is back home and getting prepared for engine dyno. 





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Bob Gaines
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« Reply #64 on: June 05, 2017, 07:36:54 PM »

Engine is back home and getting prepared for engine dyno. 


In case you want to be historically correct the thermostat housing should have a square head plug instead of the Allen style.Also the smallblock exhaust manifolds were installed prior to painting so there should be visible overspray on them . I personally have not seen lift hooks on Shelby survivor car engines. I believe that a determined effort was in place to take lift hooks off Shelby SB engines so as not to detract from the fancy valve covers and aluminum intake unlike regular Mustang where many times they are left in place by assemblyline workers. It is not like it would be hard to do by them unlike the BB engines.Just some detail input in case you want to go the more historical correct route. Ether way it is looking real good. Chug a Lug   

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« Reply #65 on: June 06, 2017, 05:47:58 AM »

Thanks Bob.  I will try to find a square head plug.  Did my C9OF-T distributor originally come with a thermostat housing vacuum switch?  I had my distributor recurved to not use vacuum advance so it will be blocked off at the hose or inlet.  

I ended up taking the advice of my builder and used exhaust manifold gaskets.  He assured me they would eventually leak otherwise.  The thick VC gaskets bug me a little, but I think I can get used to them.  A few compromises were made to use a shaft roller rocker assembly with my roller cam.  My goal was to build a fun driver car that looks as original as possible.  

I am leaving my lift hooks off for now since they make it harder to change one of the spark plugs.    





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« Last Edit: June 07, 2017, 06:49:46 PM by 94Cobra » Logged
TOBKOB
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« Reply #66 on: June 06, 2017, 05:53:30 AM »

Quote
I personally have not seen lift hooks on Shelby survivor car engines. I believe that a determined effort was in place to take lift hooks off Shelby SB engines so as not to detract from the fancy valve covers and aluminum intake unlike regular Mustang where many times they are left in place by assemblyline workers. It is not like it would be hard to do by them unlike the BB engines.
Bob, 2060 has the original lift hooks in place. They were even painted a different shade of Ford blue.

TOB

« Last Edit: June 06, 2017, 05:58:35 AM by TOBKOB » Logged
shelbymann1970
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« Reply #67 on: June 06, 2017, 08:14:54 AM »

In case you want to be historically correct the thermostat housing should have a square head plug instead of the Allen style.Also the smallblock exhaust manifolds were installed prior to painting so there should be visible overspray on them . I personally have not seen lift hooks on Shelby survivor car engines. I believe that a determined effort was in place to take lift hooks off Shelby SB engines so as not to detract from the fancy valve covers and aluminum intake unlike regular Mustang where many times they are left in place by assemblyline workers. It is not like it would be hard to do by them unlike the BB engines.Just some detail input in case you want to go the more historical correct route. Ether way it is looking real good. Chug a Lug   
my engine above is a 68 302. Because of what it was I took liberties as it has auto heads but a correct date coded dist. 66 holley and such. It was somewhat correct eye candy. Smiley BTw I don't see lift hooks on this unrestored survivor Gt350 either. http://www.legendarymotorcar.com/inventory/1969-ford-mustang-shelby-gt350-1673.aspx

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Bob Gaines
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« Reply #68 on: June 06, 2017, 09:32:18 AM »

Thanks Bob.  I will try to find a square head plug.  Did my C9OF-T distributor originally come with a thermostat housing vacuum switch?  I had my distributor recurved to not use vacuum advance so it will be blocked off at the hose or inlet.  

I ended up taking the advice of my builder and used exhaust manifold gaskets.  He assured me they would eventually leak otherwise.  The thick VC gaskets bug me a little, but I think I can get used to them.  A few compromises were made to use a shaft roller rocker assembly with my roller cam.  My goal was to build a fun driver car that looks as original as possible.  

I am leaving my lift hooks off for now since they make it harder to change one of the spark plugs.    


It is typical to not have the vacuum tree. Much more typical for lift hooks to be taken off(assemblyline directive) then left on. They don't add anything IMO. Many of us have the exhaust manifold mating surface planed for extra insurance. I always use a little high temp silicone small enough that it dosnt squeeze out but if it did to wipe it off. Millions of fords have gone without gaskets and without issues. You do what makes you comfortable. Chug a Lug

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« Reply #69 on: June 19, 2017, 05:46:03 PM »

Engine is finally ready for the dyno day which is this Wednesday 6/21.  I went through the carb and am glad I did - the power valve was less than finger tight.  The gaskets between metering block and main body were in rough shape also.  

Spark plug wire routing is my next challenge.  I wanted to use the concours wires, but the ohm meter showed their resistance was 10 times more than the aftermarket wires.  

I did not lose my original engine tag.   Party on

    



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« Last Edit: June 19, 2017, 05:48:46 PM by 94Cobra » Logged
TOBKOB
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« Reply #70 on: June 19, 2017, 06:15:22 PM »

Looking good  Smiley

TOB

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94Cobra
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« Reply #71 on: June 20, 2017, 06:26:19 AM »

Looking good  Smiley

TOB

Thanks.  A few lessons learned I will share.  Only use Holley brand vacuum secondary diaphragms.  The off-brand NPD versions don't allow the secondaries to fully close and the hole to mount the shaft is too small.  Also, the reproduction pcv rubber hoses for a 1969 351W aren't even close for a 1969 GT350.  I had to reuse my original. 

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94Cobra
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« Reply #72 on: June 25, 2017, 07:44:38 PM »

Engine Dyno Results.  It should be a lot more fun to drive now.   Chug a Lug


https://youtu.be/YRTmJ7YohjU



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« Last Edit: June 25, 2017, 07:51:04 PM by 94Cobra » Logged
6S2020
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« Reply #73 on: June 26, 2017, 02:01:30 PM »

Awesome, have fun with it  PeelOut  Chug a Lug

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SFM6S2020  1 of 29 Factory Black (no LeMans stripe) non Hertz cars. SAI company car.
Better to be a Racer for a minute than a spectator for a life time.
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« Reply #74 on: June 26, 2017, 07:32:02 PM »

Awesome, have fun with it  PeelOut  Chug a Lug

Thanks.  Will do. 

Got it installed tonight - no issues.  I didn't lose any blood unlike when I removed the engine.





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