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Author Topic: want to introduce you all too #1154 GT500  (Read 6535 times)
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gjz30075
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« Reply #60 on: March 17, 2017, 02:13:41 AM »

Jeremy, I'd like to learn more about your shop, but your link in your profile doesn't work.    Can you provide a better link?
Thanks!

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Greg Z
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imming1965
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« Reply #61 on: March 17, 2017, 07:44:42 AM »

Jeremy, I'd like to learn more about your shop, but your link in your profile doesn't work.    Can you provide a better link?
Thanks!
hi there you can email me at jeremyimming@gmail.com if you are on facebook you can look me up by my name or my shop page is facebook.com/jeremyscars  I'm a small shop. It is just me and two friends out in the country in iowa.

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imming1965
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« Reply #62 on: March 17, 2017, 07:47:01 AM »

This information is evolving just as the expectations for restorations are. We have to get used to changing our point of view given new or overwelming information to the contrary.  Chug a Lug
hahaha I understand...I will have to change it then or let owner decide anyway...

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imming1965
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« Reply #63 on: March 18, 2017, 07:22:37 AM »

here is one of bottom....



* 20170226_171623.jpg (66.32 KB, 800x450 - viewed 57 times.)
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Bob Gaines
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« Reply #64 on: March 18, 2017, 08:05:53 AM »

here is one of bottom....
First It looks very good and authentic . If you let your suspension hang  as in the picture unsupported you risk ruining the upper bushings in your shocks along with the bushings in your strut rods. This is even more likely if they are original or current repro of the original Harris  bushings. This was a bad habit for me to break . It involves putting a brace in place to support the upper control arm so that it is braced against the frame rail in a way that does not allow it to drop down when lifted. The Ford shop manual shows a illustration of how to fabricate one out of metal (best). You can even make one out of short section of 2 X 4 but it is less safe . Check into it. The damage that is very possible is very labor intensive to fix.Using the brace on each side when lifting the front is a good habit to get into regardless if one or both sides.  The driver side tie rod adjusting clamps need to be rotated as per the assembly line manual or risk grinding a groove in the power control valve when the bolts of the clamp make contact when they pass the valve each time when turning the wheel side to side. It is more pronounced over bumps . There was a recent thread about common power steering restorer mistake .You are missing the clamp on the power control valve that holds the two lines. two types were used the earlier style is a special crimp style clamp and the later 67 style through 1970 was a Suretite brand screw clamp. There should be a thin cork gasket under the clutch inspection cover from the factory. Just a couple of the things that I see that stick out from this angle without blowing up the picture. Looks great. Chug a Lug

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imming1965
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« Reply #65 on: March 18, 2017, 08:40:32 AM »

here is another picture from bottom. I sure wish it was easier to put pictures up... I understand why with data reasons and everything but it's hard to have to downsize all these pictures first....just venting a little...hahaha



* 20170226_171605.jpg (66.12 KB, 800x450 - viewed 54 times.)
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KR Convertible
Paul Orr
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« Reply #66 on: March 18, 2017, 09:09:31 AM »

No pinch weld black?

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1957 Thunderbird F code
1959 Cadillac 62 Series convertible
1966 Mustang GT convertible
1968 GT500 convertible #0181
2016 Ford "Exploder"
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2112
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« Reply #67 on: March 18, 2017, 09:49:50 AM »

Bob, does that mean damage could occur easily when doing something like changing a single front wheel/tire?

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Bob Gaines
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« Reply #68 on: March 18, 2017, 09:52:56 AM »

No pinch weld black?
Technically the Dark Moss Green shouldn't have needed it but as a matter of practice it is not uncommon to see t even on Dark Moss Green cars . It didn't harm anything so if a dark colored car got the black out it was not something that the factory would have to correct. I would do it if it were my car but that is just me.

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Bob Gaines
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« Reply #69 on: March 18, 2017, 09:54:43 AM »

Bob, does that mean damage could occur easily when doing something like changing a single front wheel/tire?
Yes it could happen especially on older bushings. Think what happens to a rubber band when stretched and it is hardened from age or has a small tear (in the case of the bushing age crack).

« Last Edit: March 18, 2017, 09:59:23 AM by Bob Gaines » Logged

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« Reply #70 on: March 18, 2017, 09:57:05 AM »

here is another picture from bottom. I sure wish it was easier to put pictures up... I understand why with data reasons and everything but it's hard to have to downsize all these pictures first....just venting a little...hahaha

If you upload to a free hosting site and then link to that picture, you don't have to resize and is a good size here.

There are many free sites, this is tinypic.com

An example;



It is faster and better, specially on this forum.


« Last Edit: March 18, 2017, 09:58:38 AM by 2112 » Logged
J_Speegle
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« Reply #71 on: March 18, 2017, 01:32:32 PM »

Technically the Dark Moss Green shouldn't have needed it but as a matter of practice it is not uncommon to see t even on Dark Moss Green cars . ............ I would do it if it were my car but that is just me.

+1 

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Jeff Speegle
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imming1965
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« Reply #72 on: March 18, 2017, 03:23:20 PM »

No pinch weld black?
it wasn't done at this point but it has been done sense... not all pictures are from the final day... unfortunately

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Paul Orr
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« Reply #73 on: March 18, 2017, 03:46:09 PM »

Ok.  One more question.  What do the two narrow red stripes on the driveshaft mean?

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1957 Thunderbird F code
1959 Cadillac 62 Series convertible
1966 Mustang GT convertible
1968 GT500 convertible #0181
2016 Ford "Exploder"
2016 F450 King Ranch
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