Author Topic: requesting sheet metal history  (Read 1600 times)

rraceme

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requesting sheet metal history
« on: December 01, 2020, 10:27:56 AM »
So planning to start my full restoration on 6S2227 next year. (BTW fully assembled, never wrecked, never taken apart, sitting since early 80's-exciting times!)  Ive been buying limited NOS metal in preparation for my work. Ive always wondered about the variety and history of factory metal. Can someone explain the following - also which is best?
1) red oxide primer sheet metal with fomoco paper sticker and date code stamped in metal (my experience oldest example of metal ) no yellow paint part number.
2) red oxide primer sheet metal with a yellow part number painted on back side (not sure if date code stamped on or not?)
3) black colored sheet metal - typically newer looking part number decal\sticker on sheet metal- does it have a date stamp?
4) original ford tooling sold everywhere today - i know ford must be compensated for the use of their FORD name. It is REALLY stamped from the original tooling machines? because Ive used (in other projects) OF Tooling metal which fit TERRIBLE. equally as bad as some import metal.

Hopefully ive done a decent job in explaining my questions. Thank you all for your valuable time in responding- Fred
« Last Edit: December 01, 2020, 01:11:14 PM by rraceme »
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CharlesTurner

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Re: requesting sheet metal history
« Reply #1 on: December 01, 2020, 11:01:32 AM »
That's about how it goes.  The earliest with FoMoCo labels would most likely be the closest to original fit and appearance, although there is no guarantee.  Service replacement parts were not held to the same standard as assembly line parts and any leftover parts at the assembly plant would usually be destroyed.

Of all those choices, assembly line sheet metal will be the best in fit/appearance.  Depending on what sections you're looking for, such as fenders or bolt on parts, I would strongly recommend to search out a parts coupe built close in production to your Shelby at San Jose.  Spending $6-12k on a nice, complete coupe (I6 or V8), can be a goldmine of parts, fasteners, clips, etc...  Once you're done with the coupe, it can be sold for close to what you paid... replacing OEM with repro or whatever.

Also, don't get sucked into replacing complete panels if the originals can be patched/repaired.  For instance, I would patch a battery apron that had rust on the area around the battery tray and preserve the original piece as much as possible, keeping from disturbing original spot welds.  Your car will appear more original this way and minimize any issues later on with value.

Charles Turner
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Bob Gaines

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Re: requesting sheet metal history
« Reply #2 on: December 01, 2020, 11:37:50 AM »
So planning to start my full restoration on 6S2227 next year. (BTW fully assembled, never wrecked, never taken apart, sitting since early 80's-exciting times!)  Ive been buying limited NOS metal in preparation for my work. Ive always wondered about the variety and history of factory metal. Can someone explain the following - also which is best?
1) red oxide primer sheet metal with fomoco paper sticker and date code stamped in metal (my experience oldest example of metal ) no yellow paint part number.
2) red oxide primer sheet metal with a yellow part number painted on back side (not sure if date code stamped on or not?)
3) black colored sheet metal - typically newer looking part number decal\sticker on sheet metal- does it have a date stamp?
4) original ford tooling - i know ford must be compensated for the use of their FORD name. It is REALLY stamped from the original tooling machines? because Ive used (in other projects) OF Tooling metal which fit TERRIBLE. equally as bad as some import metal.

Hopefully ive done a decent job in explaining my questions. Thank you all for your valuable time in responding- Fred
The red oxide is as you observed the older and typically more desired sheet metal . The red oxide version is typical more desired because it was made on tooling before it began to degrade and wear out. The main example I am aware of is on the quarter panels and the body line definition. Some of the last that Ford produced had a body line that was not as distinct. It is my understanding that it cost many hundreds of thousands of dollars to have tooling made for a sheet metal part like a fast back quarter panel. Much of the old tooling got sold decades ago by Ford basically for scrape price. Danial Carpenter is one that comes to mind that bought many hundreds of tons. He had to recondition much of the tooling which was very expensive but less then starting from scratch. He most likely still has other tooling for parts that he hasn't even put into production yet. I know one friend for example who bought hundreds of tons of 55-57 T bird tooling only to find out that the cost of reconditioning the tooling was not going to make it profitable to sell the T bird quarters and other sheet metal parts tooling parts he bought it for. He ended up selling it for scrap. What a shame.  If it is a Danial Carpenter original tooling part you can depend on it being faithful to the vintage in quality. There is far more original sheet metal that you will find that is not date stamped. There is typically no year date but finding a month and day comparable to what is on or appropriate for your car can be a challenge.The date code on the sheet metal is a non issue IMO if you are willing to think outside the box. The short answer is to copy the dates on the sheet metal that you take off and metal stamp them back in the same spot on the replacement sheet metal. Like i said it is the short answer. Getting the correct style of metal stamp and how to properly stamp it by hand in the metal is part of the longer answer but you get the idea.Just some of my observations others may have different ones.
Bob Gaines,Shelby Enthusiast, Shelby Collector , Shelby Concours judge SAAC,MCA,Mid America Shelby

rraceme

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Re: requesting sheet metal history
« Reply #3 on: December 01, 2020, 01:37:21 PM »
Thank you Charles and Bob,

Charles yes i was already planning to only repair the damaged part of any sheet metal leaving as much original metal intact as possible. your example of the inner fender for  the battery box, mine  is about 20% rotted (Ive seen worse). When i purchased my car the previous owner included a 66 coupe to do exactly what you suggested.

Bob, I truly appreciate your insight. I you gave me several good ideas and information I didn't  know before.

Last question.....,  the original ford tooling metal widely available today is NOT comparable with ford stamped metal? Are you saying when i buy sheet metal displaying O.F. Tooling its is made by Danial Carpenter?
« Last Edit: December 01, 2020, 01:44:55 PM by rraceme »
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Bob Gaines

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Re: requesting sheet metal history
« Reply #4 on: December 01, 2020, 02:03:20 PM »
Thank you Charles and Bob,

Charles yes i was already planning to only repair the damaged part of any sheet metal leaving as much original metal intact as possible. your example of the inner fender for  the battery box, mine  is about 20% rotted (Ive seen worse). When i purchased my car the previous owner included a 66 coupe to do exactly what you suggested.

Bob, I truly appreciate your insight. I you gave me several good ideas and information I didn't  know before.

Last question.....,  the original ford tooling metal widely available today is NOT comparable with ford stamped metal? Are you saying when i buy sheet metal displaying O.F. Tooling its is made by Danial Carpenter?
It is comparable but that is not a guarantee of quality. The sheet metal Ford made changed over time as the tooling degraded. I am not saying when you buy sheet metal displaying O.F. Tooling its is made by Danial Carpenter. You would have to verify.
Bob Gaines,Shelby Enthusiast, Shelby Collector , Shelby Concours judge SAAC,MCA,Mid America Shelby