The Official SAAC Forum
June 18, 2013, 06:46:17 PM *
Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.
Did you miss your activation email?

Login with username, password and session length
News:
 
   Home   Login Register Search New Photo Gallery Calendar Contact Chat  
Pages: [1]   Go Down
  Print  
Author Topic: Question about refinishing 67 Brushed Aluminum Panels?  (Read 1248 times)
0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.
rcgt350
Sr. Member
****
Offline Offline

Posts: 293


Email
« on: April 07, 2011, 09:56:45 PM »

Has anyone come up with a method to refinish the original Brushed Aluminum Panels on the 67 Shelby's?
I would like to redo the RH panel over the glove box. I'm thinking you would start with sanding the panel in the grain direction? but what number of paper or other method would I use? Is there someone who can do the bright dip anodizing? and can it be done with the steel backing that is attached to the brushed panel?
 Thanks Randy

Logged
car 26
Hero Member
*****
*
Offline Offline

Posts: 1196



« Reply #1 on: April 08, 2011, 05:53:20 AM »

Randy, I had to buy new door inserts as mine were deeply scratched.  I did redo the dash pieces. After removing them from the plastic backings I used some solvent to remove the old clear (careful of the "WIPERS" and "BRAKES" lettering on the instrument cluster) and then got son rigid foam and stuck them on the foam.  Then used steel wool and scotch brite carefully in the direction of the "brushing" and finally clear to seal them.

Others may have better ways, hope this helps

Logged
Shelby6t7
Hero Member
*****
*
Offline Offline

Posts: 569



Email
« Reply #2 on: April 08, 2011, 06:30:19 AM »

I had the aluminum pieces in my car restored many years ago by a guy named Joe Olyphant out in California. He did an unbelieveable job.
Not sure if he's offering his services anymore?

Kenny

Logged
Bob Gaines
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 7545


« Reply #3 on: April 08, 2011, 09:47:23 AM »

Randy, I had to buy new door inserts as mine were deeply scratched.  I did redo the dash pieces. After removing them from the plastic backings I used some solvent to remove the old clear (careful of the "WIPERS" and "BRAKES" lettering on the instrument cluster) and then got son rigid foam and stuck them on the foam.  Then used steel wool and scotch brite carefully in the direction of the "brushing" and finally clear to seal them.

Others may have better ways, hope this helps
I think it would be best to remove the brite dip andoizing before any sanding. However you do it I don't think the refinish piece will match the other pieces unless you do them all. Just my 2 cents. Bob

Logged

Shelby Car Enthusiast, Collector, Shelby Concours Judge
Chris Bollinger
Sr. Member
****
*
Offline Offline

Posts: 405



Email
« Reply #4 on: April 08, 2011, 11:18:03 AM »

I cleaned mine up by rubbing them down (with the grain of course) with a mixture of water and baking soda.  Turned out pretty well.  If your piece is too far gone then you might need something with a bit more bite.

Logged
rcgt350
Sr. Member
****
Offline Offline

Posts: 293


Email
« Reply #5 on: April 09, 2011, 10:45:39 AM »

I've spoke with Joe in the past too. I might try and track him down.
So, will the bright dip anodizing come off with a thinner? What number of sandpaper or scotch pad color would be recomended?

Logged
Bob Gaines
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 7545


« Reply #6 on: April 09, 2011, 12:01:00 PM »

I've spoke with Joe in the past too. I might try and track him down.
So, will the bright dip anodizing come off with a thinner? What number of sandpaper or scotch pad color would be recomended?
Brite dip anodizing will not come off with thinner. I think maybe the more recently made panels were not brite dip anodized like they did in the 60's but clear coated with a paint product which would explain why thinner would strip the coating off . I believe people like Joe and others use a clear paint product instead of the brite dip anodizing for convenience and cost. It can look very similiar . It is when you try and sand through the anodizing that the differance becomes evident. Just my experience others may have different . Bob

Logged

Shelby Car Enthusiast, Collector, Shelby Concours Judge
car 26
Hero Member
*****
*
Offline Offline

Posts: 1196



« Reply #7 on: April 10, 2011, 07:13:07 AM »

Was trying to answer the original post, if you're doing a car to be judged competitively you probably want/should to send ALL the brushed aluminum pieces out so they match and look as correct as possible.  There are a number of places that do this.  I did send the "chromed" plastic pieces out to be redone, I used Tony's Auto Classics (http://www.tonysautoclassics.com/) he also does the aluminum inserts too but I did the inserts myself as my pockets are not that deep and my car is not a trailer queen, it gets driven and I hope to do that today. 

Even if you are not competing I think just doing one piece will be a bit challenging to do and have it match the un-restored pieces, age = patina.

I'm not sure what the solvent took off - 40 years of grime and the adhesive from old dash plaques?  I did NOT use any sandpaper - only steel wool and Scotch brite - slow, careful, with the "grain" and only enough to freshen them up as they were not bad, more of a deep cleaning, and then cleared them.

The door pieces on my car were too deeply scratched so I got reproductions from Burton (http://www.burtonantiqueautoparts.com) as I felt his were the best (at the time - maybe some one else makes better now) and I'm pleased with them and Mr. Burton was very good to deal with.

Yes , there is a slight difference between the "color" of the Burton door inserts and the pieces I did but I have to point it out. Hope this helps.

Logged
Pages: [1]   Go Up
  Print  
 
Jump to:  

Site Customized by DragonFly Designs StatsPowered by MySQL Powered by PHP Powered by SMF 1.1.11 | SMF © 2006-2009, Simple Machines LLC Valid XHTML 1.0! Valid CSS!