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Author Topic: Spring Compressor Question  (Read 6361 times)
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94Cobra
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« on: March 25, 2011, 07:04:39 AM »

I borrowed a beefy-looking spring compressor that bolts into the spring perch in place of the shock absorber.  The other end mounts on top of the shock tower.  See photos.  If I continue to compress the coil spring until all tension is off of the upper control arm, will it be safe to unbolt the spring perch from the upper arm?  Or, will I lose a few fingers and destroy my original 69 Shelby fenders?  No instructions came with this home-made contraption.  Opinions welcome. 





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Shasmu
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« Reply #1 on: March 25, 2011, 07:50:19 AM »

You'd be puttin' alot of stress on the nuts holding it to the spring seat.  Hard to predict someone's workmanship.
Don't use your Shelby for a guinea pig.
The shock towers are cracked and look like they need pulled back and stress cracks welded.
Be safe.
 Here's how I fix the cracked towers on a small block car.
http://www.shastamustangsupply.com/towers1.htm




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« Last Edit: March 25, 2011, 07:58:56 AM by Shasmu » Logged

94Cobra
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« Reply #2 on: March 25, 2011, 08:03:21 AM »

How can you tell the shock towers are cracked?  Where do you see a crack at?

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Shasmu
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« Reply #3 on: March 25, 2011, 05:47:01 PM »

Looks like a shadow where cracks are prevalent. Wink
 The puller appears to have more than enough threads to release and replace the spring seat.
 



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« Last Edit: March 25, 2011, 06:51:37 PM by Shasmu » Logged

Rodney T
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« Reply #4 on: March 26, 2011, 09:00:04 AM »

Does the bottom part of that compressor bolt through were the lower shock mounting goes?  If so, that is pretty clever.  As with anything related to spring work, strive to keep your hands out from any pinch (ah, crush?) points.   I really don't see how the fender would get dented out should this fail if you leave the upper/outer sheild in place.

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Shasmu
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« Reply #5 on: March 26, 2011, 09:17:11 AM »

http://saacforum.com/index.php?topic=9941.0

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94Cobra
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« Reply #6 on: March 26, 2011, 09:18:15 AM »

Yes.  It bolts into where the lower shock bolts to the perch.  I got the spring and upper arm out, but it was a real challenge with this compressor.  Even with the upper ball joint removed from the spindle, there was still slight spring tension even with the upper arm all the way down against the frame.  I removed the 2 nuts from the inner shock tower and had to pry it out.  I rented a 4-hook compressor tool from the local auto parts store which I will use for the other side. 

What is the best way to clean the spindles to prep for paint?  Sandblast or soaking in some type of chemical?




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KensKR
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« Reply #7 on: March 26, 2011, 09:21:04 AM »

Personally I wouldn't use that compressor. You can't remove the spring, and I wouldn't work under a loaded spring. The picture below is the spring compressor I've always liked, (pipe spacer optional). It fits inside the spring so it can't come off, and you can remove the spring. Then I put the spring out away from everything just encase the compressor failed, nothing will get damaged. A compressed spring is a lot worse than a Pitbull.
The compressor below can be rented or bought at most auto parts stores.
Kenny


« Last Edit: March 26, 2011, 09:23:51 AM by KensKR » Logged

Shasmu
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« Reply #8 on: March 26, 2011, 09:29:20 AM »

Yes.  It bolts into where the lower shock bolts to the perch.  I got the spring and upper arm out, but it was a real challenge with this compressor.  Even with the upper ball joint removed from the spindle, there was still slight spring tension even with the upper arm all the way down against the frame.  I removed the 2 nuts from the inner shock tower and had to pry it out.  I rented a 4-hook compressor tool from the local auto parts store which I will use for the other side.  

What is the best way to clean the spindles to prep for paint?  Sandblast or soaking in some type of chemical?

Paint stripper, parts washer, wire brush.

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94Cobra
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« Reply #9 on: March 26, 2011, 09:42:33 AM »

Thanks for the information.  I will have to find some paint stripper - I'm assuming they sell it at Auto Parts stores.  Will a 5 gallon bucket work as a parts washer?  What kind of gloves do you wear when using it? 

On the cracks in the shock tower, I can't see any at this point but I will clean the entire area very well and look closely.  I do have the reinforced towers since it is a Shelby.  I will be looking for a one-piece export brace next Saturday at the All Ford Parts Swap in Columbus, OH. 

Here is the compressor I rented.  It looks similar to yours Kenny.




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Bob Gaines
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« Reply #10 on: March 26, 2011, 11:23:15 AM »

I will be looking for a one-piece export brace next Saturday at the All Ford Parts Swap in Columbus, OH. 



Don't waste your time . Just order one of the concours correct looking ones from Brent at Virginia. That is unless you wanted to pay 3 times as much for a original one (looks the same)at the swap that isn't assemblyline correct for your car anyway. Just sayin. Grin

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« Reply #11 on: March 26, 2011, 03:18:31 PM »

I have access to an engine rebuilders facility next door. I use their parts washer (like a dish washer on steroids) then wire brush and bead blast.This is the best way I've found to clean the springs.
  Spindles must be well taped if they are to be bead blasted.
After you've cleaned the spring and it's detailed, they can become mighty slippery. The hooks can become unstable as the spring is compressed and the coils change their angles. 
 Hooks can slip off to one side, causing the spring to curve.
To prevent slippage, fold over a piece if sandpaper and put it between the compressor hooks and the spring.

 

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KensKR
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« Reply #12 on: March 27, 2011, 07:43:21 AM »

The only problem I've had with the internal hook compressor, is the bolt would hit the spring perch before the spring was compressed enough to come out. Thats why I added a piece of pipe to my compressor so it would compress the spring before the bolt contacts the spring perch. My springs are shorter than stock so you may not have a problem with the bolt. I usually remove the bolt, and position the hooks where I want them then install the bolt. It can be tough getting the compressor installed assembled.
Kenny

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94Cobra
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« Reply #13 on: March 27, 2011, 08:29:15 AM »

Yes Kenny.  I found that out the hard way last night after trying for an hour.  I finally figured out I needed a spacer.  I'm off to the hardware store to find a spacer like the one in the photo of your compressor.  Can you measure your spacer is so I can buy the correct length?  Thanks.   

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zray
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« Reply #14 on: March 27, 2011, 08:55:20 AM »

"........... I usually remove the bolt, and position the hooks where I want them then install the bolt. It can be tough getting the compressor installed assembled.
Kenny

nice tip. otherwise with the compressor assembled it does take some serious swearing, but can be done if you have the patience and the planets are in alignment.

a stack of washers work as well as a pipe for the spacer.

Z.

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