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VTGT500
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« on: October 12, 2010, 05:58:15 PM » |
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Completed the retoration/reassembly of my '68 and only had one part left over. A palm sized, flat, white, plastic item. Upon driving the car am getting no benefit from the power brake booster. Booster is the banded style. Suspect the left over item is a spacer or seal that went between the master cylinder and booster. However, I can find no assembly drawing that details the item. There is a rubber seal stuck on the front of the booster I'd like to replace as well. Internally the booster is perfect, not needing to be sent away for a rebuild. Haven't done the propane test for a vacuum leak yet. Suggestions?
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Shasmu
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« Reply #1 on: October 12, 2010, 06:27:45 PM » |
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There are 3 pieces sandwiched between the booster and master cyl. A cast aluminum part seals the rubber ring at the booster, then the plastic piece , also originally there was a filter between the two pieces. The filter looked very much like a scotch brite pad.
I'll look for my picture to post for you.
Dave
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Shasmu
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« Reply #2 on: October 13, 2010, 07:16:39 PM » |
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Here's the pics.
The black plastic part I believe is newer replacement. Originals I've seen are white.
The aluminum part is typical.
Dave
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Texas Swede
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« Reply #3 on: October 13, 2010, 09:18:09 PM » |
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The pieces you are showing are from the Midland Ross Booster also pictured.
Are you sure these parts are the same on a Bendix Booster?
Texas Swede
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Shasmu
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« Reply #4 on: October 13, 2010, 09:28:46 PM » |
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Completed the retoration/reassembly of my '68 and only had one part left over. A palm sized, flat, white, plastic item. Upon driving the car am getting no benefit from the power brake booster. Booster is the banded style. Suspect the left over item is a spacer or seal that went between the master cylinder and booster. However, I can find no assembly drawing that details the item. There is a rubber seal stuck on the front of the booster I'd like to replace as well. Internally the booster is perfect, not needing to be sent away for a rebuild. Haven't done the propane test for a vacuum leak yet. Suggestions?
The pieces you are showing are from the Midland Ross Booster also pictured.
Are you sure these parts are the same on a Bendix Booster?
Texas Swede
Bendix and Midland Ross are complete separate entities. The booster pictured matches the poster's description, does it not?
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« Last Edit: October 13, 2010, 11:13:05 PM by Shasmu »
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VTGT500
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« Reply #5 on: October 14, 2010, 08:23:23 AM » |
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Shasmu, sincere thanks. You nailed my question regarding the plastic part. Now what can I do about the rubber seal?
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Texas Swede
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« Reply #6 on: October 14, 2010, 11:21:06 AM » |
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Sorry guys,
I am getting old. I read the post as crimped style but it says banded. My bad.
Texas Swede
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Shasmu
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« Reply #7 on: October 14, 2010, 06:47:24 PM » |
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Sorry guys,
I am getting old. I read the post as crimped style but it says banded. My bad.
Texas Swede
I've done that plenty of times mysef.  |
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Shasmu
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« Reply #8 on: October 14, 2010, 07:11:05 PM » |
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Heres some things to look for. Also the bakelite plunger valve can be broken. Would you like to see more exploded booster pics? Shasmu, sincere thanks. You nailed my question regarding the plastic part. Now what can I do about the rubber seal?
Rubber seals don't eat fish like the real ones do, and they are not protected by law. Therefore I feel that clubbing the rubber seal with a lead filled pipe would be appropriate. |
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« Last Edit: October 15, 2010, 12:48:43 AM by Shasmu »
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VTGT500
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« Reply #9 on: October 15, 2010, 04:19:18 AM » |
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Wow, I'd never seen the guts of a Midland booster, Takes a lot of the mystery out of how it functions. Viewing the parts arrangement, note the rubber seal visable on the front of the booster is integral to the internal diaphram, and the missing, plastic part has no influence on a vacuum leak. Crap, perhaps I do have rebuild the booster. With that said, where can I buy the parts? Know of Dewy, but compared to building top loaders and side oilers, I think I'm up for the challenge.
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Shasmu
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« Reply #10 on: October 15, 2010, 10:37:44 PM » |
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The pedal plunger pushes in on an internal valve that is comprised of a silicone or silastic disk with holes that directs atmospheric pressure into the rear chamber of the booster, pushing the diaphram towards the master cyl.
Releasing the brake pedal allows vacuum to equalize on each side of the diaphram and allowing it to return to the pedal up position.
A master cyl that leaks can ruin a diaphram.
I'm not aware of anyone who sells the rebuild parts, but would like to find a source.
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« Last Edit: October 15, 2010, 11:00:46 PM by Shasmu »
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Texas Swede
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« Reply #11 on: October 16, 2010, 06:23:10 AM » |
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6 weeks ago, I took my Midland Ross booster to a guy here in Dallas for repair.
The diaphram was ruptured in two places. He fixed the booster with a new
diaphram, rubber seals etc. while I was waiting and charged $75.
Hopefully it will work in my 67 next summer when I bring it to Sweden.
/Texas Swede
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Shasmu
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« Reply #12 on: October 16, 2010, 07:40:04 AM » |
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Since brake fluid can leak from the rear or the master cyl, consider using silicone brake fluid, so the rubber booster parts won't be damaged.
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Texas Swede
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« Reply #13 on: October 16, 2010, 12:11:27 PM » |
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Thanks for the tip,
There was no trace of brake fluid in the booster but I have used silicone
since 1978 without any problems. The original booster suddenly gave
up in June 2009 (ruptured diaphram) and I brought another rebuilt over and installed in June 2010. It works
okay but if I press very hard on the brake pedal it sucks air from somewhere, idle increases
and engine starts going rough. As said, next summer the rebuilt original goes back in.
Texas Swede
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Shasmu
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« Reply #14 on: October 16, 2010, 10:25:55 PM » |
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If you buy a rebuilt unit, very important that you keep and inspect your old core for parts or future rebuild.
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